ISTANBUL, Turkey (AP) - Ever since Pope Benedict XVI wandered into the religious crossfire between Islam and the West, the Vatican has been busy trying to retreat to calmer ground. But no one expects Benedict's trip to Turkey to be quiet.
The four-day visit that begins Tuesday has already brought tens of thousands of protesters into the streets.
Hardly a week has passed since the pope's explosive remarks in September on violence and the Prophet Muhammad without some gesture toward Muslims, including a private papal audience for Muslim ambassadors and a highly publicized message of unity for Islam's holy month of Ramadan.
On Sunday an estimated 25,000 Turks denounced the pope as an enemy of Islam at a protest in Istanbul, the ancient Christian capital of Constantinople where Benedict plans to meet the spiritual leader of the world's Orthodox Christians, Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew I.
On Wednesday, about 40 members of a Turkish nationalist party occupied Istanbul's famous Haghia Sophia — a former Byzantine church and mosque — and chanted slogans against the pope.
Banners unfurled in Istanbul earlier this week depicted Bartholomew and Benedict as a two-headed snake.
"He's coming to advance the ambitions of the Christian world. I don't want him to come," said Sadik Kar, a 43-year-old computer salesman, after prayers at an Istanbul mosque.
Ali Bardakoglu, who heads religious affairs in Turkey, urged a "civilized" response to the papal visit. "Even if we don't agree with them, we always host our guests in a civilized manner," he said.
In Turkey, Benedict is a target from two directions.
Muslim anger is still easily stoked from Benedict's comments, in which he quoted a 14th century Christian emperor who characterized Muhammad's teachings as "evil and inhuman." The Vatican said the speech was an attempt to highlight the incompatibility of faith and violence, and Benedict later expressed regret for the violent Muslim backlash.
Many in Turkey also perceive Benedict as a symbol of resistance to Turkey's EU ambitions because of his support for reinforcing Europe's shared Christian bonds. The EU's overtures have cooled considerably over questions about how to reconcile Turkey's dual natures: a strongly secular government and Western-looking intelligentsia, but also widespread poverty and deep conservatism that is opening doors for more radical views.
"We see the visit of Pope Benedict XVI to Turkey as important," said Bulent Arinc, the head of Turkey's parliament. "It may be possible to correct some mistakes by coming together. You don't shake hands with a closed fist."
But it's unclear how far the Vatican is willing to go.
Benedict is not inclined to the "grand gestures" of his predecessor, Pope John Paul II, and prefers a more methodical approach in tune with his background as a scholar and theologian, said John Voll, associate director of the Center for Muslim-Christian Understanding at Georgetown University.
"The pope is trying to build a real foundation — that's theologically supported — for a meaningful dialogue between Muslims and Christians on issues such as faith and reason," Voll said. "Don't expect any big apology. From the Vatican's point of view, they have dealt with it. They are moving beyond that."
Yet that doesn't mean Benedict's trip is without possible fallout among Muslims. Continue >>
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