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TechnoratiBUENOS AIRES, Argentina - Argentina's capital Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city best experienced through its monumental passions rather than its monuments.
Argentines adore steak and red wine dinners that stretch on for hours, the sultry nostalgia of tango dance halls, a nail-biting match between rival soccer titans and spirited conversations that keep the vibrant cafe culture humming — and their fervor is contagious.
Visitors get the most out of their stay delving into these pockets of passion in Argentine life, rather than scurrying from cathedral to war monument — many of which are often less impressive than their European counterparts.
When London or New York City has called it a night, portenos — as Buenos Aires' port-dwelling residents are called — are just putting on their dancing shoes, heading out until dawn to tango halls, clubs pounding experimental cumbia music or bars that only kick out frolickers once the sun comes up.
The city is also a bargain compared to Europe or the U.S. The Buenos Aires tourism industry has grown accustomed to the steady wave of visitors since the Argentine peso plummeted to a third of its value following a devastating 2001 economic crash. While some tourist hot spots have hiked up prices, there are ways to keep costs down while exploring portenos' many passions.
Many cultural activities are free thanks to hefty government subsidies and a political push to uphold Buenos Aires' reputation as one of Latin America's cultural reference points.
Browse the city's cultural Web site — http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/cultura, Spanish only — for a list of free tango and jazz performances and film festivals. Or visit the city's tourism site — http://www.bue.gov.ar, bilingual — for self-guided tours and free goings-on.
Now, for the first local passion, according to portenos: beef.
Argentines lead the world in beef consumption, eating an average of 143 pounds per person a year.
When choosing one of the city's ubiquitous grills, or parrillas, steer clear of Puerto Madero. The city's newest neighborhood is also one of its most expensive. Stop in one of its upscale restaurants for a $6 glass of Malbec red wine along the docks. But then head a few blocks east to the Costanera. Here dozens of grill stands serve up hamburgers and the like for around $2, right at the entrance to the Nature Reserve — a favorite haunt for bird watchers and Sunday strollers.
Rent a bike nearby in San Telmo at La Bicicleta Naranja (Pasaje Giuffra 308) for $3 an hour to pedal through the reserve to the banks of the Rio de la Plata, one of the widest rivers in the world. It's best to visit the park and the Costanera on a weekend afternoon, rather than at night.
Few dances are as passionate as the tango, next on the list of local obsessions.
But few stops on the tourist "to do" list are more expensive than an elaborate tango show, which can run upward of $100 per person with dinner.
Go to a tango dance hall, or milonga, instead, where entrance is usually around $5. Most people go to dance, but you can sit and have a drink while dozens of intertwined couples prove romance isn't dead.
Just don't look too intently at anyone — in milonga etiquette that's a sign you want to dance. If a muse does inspire, however, many milongas offer inexpensive classes before the regulars hit the floor. Continue »
