Travel: In Colorado’s oldest town, history, faith and landscape converge
SAN LUIS, Colorado — This small town near the Centennial State’s border with New Mexico offers an authentic glimpse into the past, when faith was a more integral part of daily life.
Founded in 1851, just three years after the Mexican-American War ended with the United States annexation of the Southwest, San Luis, with its population of 598 souls, is the seat of Costilla County. It is also the oldest town in Colorado.
The town was settled by Hispanos, as the descendants of Spanish and Mexican settlers in New Mexico are called. Banners lining Main Street tell the story of founding families, many of whom remain in San Luis or elsewhere in the San Luis Valley. Culturally and geographically, the town is closer to Santa Fe and Taos than to Denver.
While Taos, about an hour away by car, draws visitors with its ski area and arts scene, there are no resorts or even hotels here, despite sweeping views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The range’s Spanish name translates to blood of Christ. Most travelers who pass through San Luis are headed elsewhere.
Those who do stop are often making their way to the Shrine of the Stations of the Cross on the Hill of Piety and Mercy.
Perched on a mesa overlooking the town and valley, the shrine is both a place of pilgrimage and a work of art. It feels distinctly Old World. At first glance, it could be mistaken for a centuries-old abbey somewhere in Spain.
Visitors can reach the shrine in two ways. The more traditional route is on foot, via a trail that climbs from near Main Street and includes 15 stations. Each is marked by a bronze sculpture by local artist Huberto Maestas depicting the judgment, suffering, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. While the Stations of the Cross are primarily a Roman Catholic devotion, they are also observed by some liturgical Protestants, including some Anglicans and Lutherans. The second option is to drive up an unpaved road.
The hike is easy, but the elevation (nearly 8,000 feet) can make it challenging for some visitors.
The church, formally called the Chapel of All Saints, is a fine example of Spanish revival architecture. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit earlier this month.
Still, the setting alone is reason enough to make the trip. From the mesa, the panoramic view stretches across the San Luis Valley to the Sangre de Cristos.
It is here that the shrine’s purpose comes into focus. This is more than a religious site. It is a place where landscape and spirituality converge — a reminder that everything you see was created by Him.
If you go
While San Luis might seem out of the way, it is an easy drive. Within Colorado, Alamosa and Great Sand Dunes National Park are about 40 minutes away by car.
The local Roman Catholic parish operates the El Convento Inn. Housed in a former school and convent, the inn has four rooms, each with an en-suite bathroom, with rates of $100 per night.
Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post.
Dennis Lennox writes about travel, politics and religious affairs. He has been published in the Financial Times, Independent, The Detroit News, Toronto Sun and other publications. Follow @dennislennox on Twitter.
