Travel: Discovering a quieter, more authentic side of the Smokies in Sevierville

SEVIERVILLE, Tennessee — This gateway to the Great Smoky Mountains, America’s most-visited national park, has kept its small-town feel even as millions of tourists pass through every year.

That’s a welcome relief for visitors seeking something more authentic than the kitsch found in neighboring Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg.

Sevierville (population 17,889 souls) is more than just a place to stop for gas or shop at the big Tanger outlet mall. With the Smokies visible from almost anywhere in town, it’s become a destination in its own right.

Fortunately, growth and development haven’t eroded its heritage.

The red-brick Sevier County Courthouse, a 130-year-old landmark listed on the National Register of Historic Places, anchors downtown. Out front is a bronze statue of favorite daughter Dolly Parton. Needless to say, it’s a popular spot for selfies.

Long before the courthouse was built, what became Sevierville and Sevier County was settled during one of the first waves of westward expansion after the American Revolution. The namesake, John Sevier, was a veteran of the revolution and the first governor of Tennessee. Sevier’s legacy looms large: He helped secure the region and encourage settlement during the Volunteer State’s formative years.

Within walking distance are cafés, restaurants, shops and even an old-school hardware store. A newish boutique hotel, the Historic Central Hotel, attracts visitors who might otherwise spend a night or two at a forgettable chain hotel on the outskirts of the city. Plaques and markers recounting the area’s history are everywhere.

Just outside downtown is SkyLand Ranch, a mountaintop attraction that blends panoramic views with agricultural heritage. Reached by a ski resort-style chairlift, the 100-acre ranch sits above the valley and features miniature animals, seasonal events and overlooks with million-dollar views of the Smokies.

Still, the main draw is the mountains themselves. From downtown, it takes less than 30 minutes to reach the boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Because the Smokies are a park for all seasons, Sevierville is a year-round destination — particularly striking when snow dusts the upper elevations. While I didn’t see snow during my visit last month, I did catch the last of the autumn colors.

Christmas is when the town shines brightest. The annual Smoky Mountain Winterfest keeps more than 15 million lights glowing through Feb. 16 — two weeks past Candlemas, the traditional close of the Christmas season. Meanwhile, the Festival of Lights at SkyLand Ranch runs through Jan. 3.

Visitors expecting the over-the-top spectacles of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge will instead find a community parade, a singing Christmas tree featuring the choir of First Baptist Church and quiet streets wrapped in simple white lights. On a December evening, Sevierville feels — in the best possible way — like the set of a Hallmark or Great American Family movie.

If you go

A short drive outside the city limits is the Harrisburg Covered Bridge, one of Tennessee’s last remaining covered bridges. Built in 1875 and spanning the East Fork of the Little Pigeon River, it recalls a time when wagons were the primary means of transportation.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park receives more than 12 million annual visitors, likely because no admission is charged. Instead, the only fee that applies is for a parking pass. To escape the crowds, plan a weekday visit during the spring and fall shoulder seasons.

I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express, which was clean, comfortable and affordable. Some rooms have views of the Smokies. If your budget allows, consider staying downtown at New Hotel Collection’s Historic Central Hotel.

Recommended restaurants include DO Scratch Made Pizza & Pasta (it’s more upscale than a typical pizzeria), Seasons 101 and Italian Roma Table. More casual options include Red’s Soda Fountain and Central Coffee & Crumb.

Sevierville is about an hour’s drive from the nearest major airport in Knoxville. Since a car is essential, driving may be easiest. Atlanta, Charlotte, Cincinnati and Louisville are all within four to five hours.

Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post.